Thread Count Explained: What It Means and Why It Matters

Thread count is the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric. A higher number doesn't automatically mean better bedding. Very tight weaves can trap heat, and some brands inflate the figure by counting twisted multi-ply threads separately. Fabric type, weave and quality of production tell you far more, and linen isn't usually measured by thread count at all.

What is thread count?

Thread count is a measure of how tightly woven a fabric is. It's the total number of threads, lengthwise and widthwise, woven into one square inch of fabric.

So a thread count of 200 means 100 lengthwise threads woven with 100 widthwise threads in every square inch. It tells you how dense the weave is. It doesn't tell you how soft, durable or comfortable the bedding will be.

Is a higher thread count better?

Not necessarily. Bedding is often marketed as better quality because of the high thread count we associate with hotels, but the number only tells part of the story.

• Heat: The tighter the weave, the less room there is for air to move. A very high thread count can leave warm air trapped between your skin and the sheet, which is why crisp, high-count hotel sheets can feel a bit stifling.

• Inflated numbers: Some brands twist several fine threads together and count each strand separately, which can push the label well beyond what the fabric really is. If a number looks unusually high, it's worth being sceptical.

• The sweet spot: Quality sheets generally sit somewhere between 200 and 800 thread count, but there's no single right number. Thread count works best alongside the other factors below.

Thread count by fabric and weave type

The material and the weave matter just as much as the number. "100% cotton" doesn't tell you much on its own, as cotton comes in several weaves, each with its own typical range.

Does linen have a thread count?

Yes, but it isn't normally used to judge linen quality. There are two reasons:

1. 1. Linen is a looser weave than cotton. That openness is part of what makes it so breathable.

   2. Linen fibres are much thicker than cotton fibres. Fewer threads fit into a square inch, so the number doesn't reflect quality in the same way.

If you're curious, linen typically ranges from 80 to 140 thread count. Our linen bedding, made from 100% natural European flax, sits at around 120. For linen, it's better to look at the quality of the flax and how it's been made.

What else should you look for?

Thread count is one thing to weigh up, not the only one. Alongside it, check:

• The material: Linen and cotton feel and behave differently, and both come in a range of qualities.

• The weave: Percale, sateen and seersucker each give a different feel, so choose the one that suits how you like to sleep.

• Yarn and production quality: Very inexpensive linen or cotton on the high street is often a sign the material won't last as long.

• Certification: Look for OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, which means the textile has been tested for harmful substances.

• Customer reviews: Other people's experience of washing and living with bedding is usually a good place to start.

Still deciding between fabrics? Take a look at our guide on the differences between cotton and linen bedding.  

Frequently Asked Questions

What is thread count?

Thread count is the number of lengthwise and widthwise threads woven into one square inch of fabric. A count of 200 means 100 threads in each direction. It describes how tightly the fabric is woven.

Is a higher thread count better?

Not always. A higher count means a tighter weave, which can trap heat and feel stifling, and some labels inflate the number by counting multi-ply threads separately. Weave, material and production quality are better guides to how bedding will feel and last.

What thread count is best for cotton?

It depends on the weave. Percale cotton is typically 180 to 200 thread count, while Egyptian cotton is usually 300 to 400. Beyond that, extra thread count doesn't necessarily mean better sheets, so look at the weave and quality too.

Does linen have a thread count?

Yes, typically between 80 and 140, but it isn't a standard quality measure for linen. Linen has a looser weave and thicker fibres than cotton, so the number says little about how good it is. Ours is around 120.

What else should I look for when buying bedding?

Check the material, the weave and the quality of the yarn and production. OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification shows a textile has been tested for harmful substances, and customer reviews give a good sense of how it wears over time.

Key Takeaways

• Thread count is the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric.

• Higher doesn't automatically mean better. Tight weaves can trap heat.

• Multi-ply counting can inflate labels, so be wary of very high numbers.

• Cotton varies by weave: percale is around 180 to 200 and Egyptian cotton around 300 to 400.

• Linen typically sits between 80 and 140, and thread count isn't the usual way to judge it.

• Look at material, weave, production quality and certifications alongside thread count.